Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site

15Sep19

The Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site outside of San Francisco may be the most unique site within the National Park Service.

Consider these items…

• Of the 419 current sites, it’s the only one dedicated to a playwright. O’Neill won four Pulitzer Prizes and a Nobel Prize for such acclaimed plays as The Iceman Cometh, Long Day’s Journey into Night and A Moon for the Misbegotten.
• You can’t drive to the actual site. You park in the nearby town of Danville, California, and take a park shuttle to the house.
• That’s because it’s the only site in the National Park Service within a gated community.
• And it’s probably the only park to highlight the grave of a dog.

The primary feature of the historic site is O’Neill’s house. Named “Tao House,” O’Neill and his third wife Carlotta moved to this isolated area for the quiet it provided him to write many of his masterpieces.

“Tao House” has combined Spanish and Chinese influences that you can see both on the outside and inside of the home. Although O’Neill only lived in “Tao House” for seven years, the structure looks like he still resides there despite moving out in 1944.

Almost all of the home’s furnishings were owned by the O’Neill’s and there are simple, everyday touches throughout that Eugene O’Neill left.

While “Tao House” dominates the landscape there is more to the 158-acre ranch to explore. Other out structures include a barn where every September the annual Eugene O’Neill Festival is held and his plays are performed.

A swimming pool is out back and there are walking paths throughout. You can also see the historic black walnut and almond orchards on the ranch.

There’s also the grave of his beloved Dalmatian Blemie on the property. It’s a short walk from the house and includes a touching last will and testament “written” by Blemie.

I previously mentioned you have to take a shuttle to the historic site and since a tour of “Tao House” is by guided tour only you must make reservations in advance. It’s about a 10-15 minute shuttle drive to the actual site. Carole and I were the only passengers on the morning tour, we were soon deep into conversation with our guide – Park Ranger Eric Stearns.

Turns out it’s a small world. Ranger Eric is originally from Rockford, Illinois, and knew the Myers, friends of ours from Maryville. I believe Ranger Eric even played soccer with their oldest boy Tim.

That personal connection made the experience at Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site even better than it would have anyway. But anytime you can get an exclusive tour guide, you know it’s going to be a good day.

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